Diamonds

What Is an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Bez Ambar · February 21, 2020

The Asscher cut was invented in 1902 and revived for Art Deco jewelry in the 1920s. Its step-cut facets produce a completely different visual experience than a brilliant cut.

Joseph Asscher of Amsterdam created this cut in 1902. The Asscher Brothers firm had already established itself as one of the leading diamond cutting houses in the world, responsible for cleaving the famous Cullinan diamond in 1908. The Asscher cut, with its octagonal outline and step-cut facets running parallel to the girdle, was a departure from the brilliant tradition and created a stone with a fundamentally different optical character.

In 2002, the Royal Asscher Diamond Company introduced a modified version with 74 facets rather than the original 58, which they trademarked as the Royal Asscher Cut. The original design, however, is in the public domain and is produced by many cutters worldwide.

Step Cuts

vs Brilliants

The difference between step-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds is fundamental, not superficial.

Brilliant-cut diamonds, including rounds, ovals, cushions, and radiant cuts, have triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to maximize the return of light back through the table. The result is fire and scintillation: the rapid play of white and colored light as the stone or viewer moves. This is the dominant visual language of most engagement ring diamonds.

Step-cut diamonds, including Asscher and emerald cuts, have rectangular facets running parallel to the girdle. Rather than scattering light into small flashes, step cuts create a “hall of mirrors” effect: long, clean reflections of light and dark that alternate as you view the stone from different angles. The effect is less dynamic than a brilliant but more architectural, more deliberate.

This difference is real and significant. A person who loves the sparkle of a round brilliant may find an Asscher cut quiet by comparison. A person who finds brilliant cuts busy may find an Asscher cut precise and calm. Neither reaction is wrong. They reflect genuine visual preferences.

Asscher

vs Emerald Cut

Both are step-cut diamonds with rectangular facets and cropped corners. The distinction is shape: an Asscher cut is square, with a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00. An emerald cut is rectangular, with a length-to-width ratio typically between 1.30 and 1.50.

On the hand, the square Asscher reads as compact and graphic. The rectangular emerald cut has a more elongated presence that creates a lengthening effect on the finger. The choice between them is often about which geometry suits you: square precision or rectangular elegance.

Clarity is more critical in step-cut diamonds than in brilliant cuts. The large, transparent facets make inclusions and blemishes more visible than in a round brilliant of the same clarity grade. For Asscher cuts, VS2 is generally the practical minimum for a stone that reads clean to the naked eye. The specific stone always needs to be evaluated in person.

Art Deco

and Today

The Asscher cut’s association with Art Deco is not accidental. The geometric precision of step-cut facets and the octagonal outline fit naturally with Art Deco’s aesthetic of clean lines and architectural symmetry. Much of the most celebrated jewelry from the 1920s and 1930s features Asscher and emerald cut stones.

Contemporary buyers drawn to the Asscher often share a preference for this same aesthetic: precise, graphic, architectural rather than romantic. The stone reads as intentional in a way that a round brilliant, by virtue of its ubiquity, sometimes cannot.

One practical note: Asscher cuts are currently less fashionable than oval brilliants, which affects pricing. For equivalent quality, Asscher cuts are often less expensive per carat than rounds or ovals. This creates real value for buyers who genuinely prefer the cut.

What People

Ask Us

Is an Asscher cut the same as an emerald cut? No. Both are step cuts with cropped corners and rectangular facets, but an Asscher cut is square (length-to-width ratio near 1.00) and an emerald cut is rectangular (typically 1.30 to 1.50). The octagonal outline of an Asscher cut is also more pronounced than the emerald cut’s corner cropping.

Why does an Asscher cut look darker than a round brilliant? Step-cut diamonds reflect light differently. Instead of breaking light into many small flashes, they create large mirror-like reflections of light and dark. This is not a defect; it is the defining characteristic of the cut. Whether you find it beautiful or prefer a brilliant cut’s sparkle is a matter of taste.

What clarity grade do I need for an Asscher cut? For most stones, VS2 is the practical minimum for a clean-looking Asscher cut. The large, transparent facets make inclusions more visible than in brilliant cuts. Some VS2 stones are eye-clean; others are not. The only reliable way to evaluate clarity is to view the specific stone in person.

How does the Asscher perform in different lighting? Step cuts perform beautifully in varied, soft lighting where their depth and reflection pattern are most visible. In very bright, direct light, the contrast between reflections is most dramatic. In dim lighting, step cuts appear quieter than brilliant cuts because they do not scatter light in the same way. Knowing this helps set expectations for daily wear.

Is the Royal Asscher Cut worth the premium? The Royal Asscher Cut has 74 facets versus the standard 58 and typically shows stronger light return within the step-cut aesthetic. Whether the premium is worth it depends on your budget and how meaningful the visual difference is when viewed next to a standard Asscher in person.

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